Helpful Cat Care Info
Rescuing Abandoned Kittens
Be sure the kittens are really abandoned before disturbing their nest!
The momcat may be nearby but hiding because you are there. If kittens are clean, plump, and sleeping quietly in a heap, they probably have a caring mom and should be left alone. Abandoned kittens will be dirty and the nest will be soiled. They will cry continuously because they are hungry.
If the momcat is friendly, leave the kittens with her until they are 5-6 weeks old. Whenever possible, play with the kittens to socialize them.
If the momcat is feral, remove the kittens at about 4 weeks. They will have received important antibodies from her milk. Kittens over 4 weeks old born from a feral mother become more and more difficult to tame. By 8 weeks old, the job can take months if it can be done at all.
Initial Warmth and Care
If a rescued kitten feels cold, it must be warmed immediately but carefully.
Place it on a heating pad set at the lowest setting. Wrap the heating pad in towels. A warm hot water bottle (about 100 degrees) wrapped in a towel and placed with the kitten will work. You can also take a cold kitten directly to your vet. He may have an incubator to warm the chilled kitten.
Do not feed a kitten until it is warm. It cannot properly digest food when cold. However, you can syringe feed a few drops of 5% sugar water or rub a little bit of Karo syrup on the kitten’s lips.
Kittens under 3 weeks cannot control their body temperature. Keep on a heating pad, set on low, wrapped in at least 2 layers of towels to cover the pad. If it’s too hot, the kittens will try to sleep on the edges. Heating pad should be used until the kittens are about 4-5 weeks old or until you notice they are avoiding it.
Keep kittens in a box or cat carrier in a warm, draft-free place. Cover container with a towel to make them even cozier. Change bedding often because they do have accidents! Kitten skin is very sensitive. Enlarge their space as they grow, but keep them warm and cozy. A small bathroom is fine as they grow and need more exercise.
Isolate these kittens completely from other animals.
Get the kittens to your vet just as soon as possible. He will check for dehydration and their general condition. Bring a stool sample if possible to test for worms and parasites. Kittens become dehydrated very quickly and are at risk. A dose of fluids injected under the skin (subcutaneously) is necessary if this occurs. Your vet will be happy to show you how to do this. It’s not as terrible as it sounds and will save the kitten’s life.
Many vets will offer you a free courtesy visit if you tell them that this is a rescued kitten you are fostering. Their staff can give you advice and supplies as you need them. This is very important! You can also contact your local shelter or rescue group and ask if you can become a “foster parent” through their organization as you raise the kitten. Many of these organizations help cover the cost of raising the kittens if you are planning to put them up for adoption when they are old enough.
If you are planning to keep your rescued kitten, try to find a “foster” momcat who is still nursing. Your local animal shelter or rescue organization may be able to help you with this. It is crucial that a kitten gets immunity against disease that only a mother cat’s milk can provide. This immunity lasts until they are 6-14 weeks old and makes for a much healthier kitten.
Emergency Kitten Formula
You have just rescued baby kittens and the pet store is closed. They are hungry. What to do!!! The formulas listed below are for emergency use only until regular kitten formula (such as KMR or Just Born) can be purchased from the pet store. None of these formulas are nutritionally complete enough for the long-term health of a kitten.
Formula #1
12 oz. evaporated goats milk
12 oz water
Knox unflavored gelatin. (One packet for each week of kitten’s age but no more than 4 packets). Only add more if diarrhea occurs.Heat on stove until dissolved.
Add 1 Tbsp Karo Syrup
Add 1 Tbsp nonfat or low-fat unflavored yogurt
Add 1 Tbsp protein powder
Add 1 Drop PetTinic Vitamins
Mix all ingredients well. Refrigerate. It becomes like Jell-O. Cut the amount needed for each feeding and heat in microwave. Keeps up to one week
Formula #2
8 ounces homogenized whole milk
2 egg yolks
1 tsp salad oil
1 drop liquid pediatric vitamins (optional)
Mix well. Warm before using. Keep refrigerated
Formula #3
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
Water per directions on gelatin envelope
1 12-oz can whole evaporated milk (not skimmed)
3 Tbsp plain yogurt (not low-fat)
3 tsp clear corn syrup
3 Tbsp mayonnaise
1 or 2 raw egg yolks (no egg white)
Boil water. Add gelatin powder. Add the other ingredients in the following order, mix well after each addition: half the canned milk, corn syrup, mayonnaise + yogurt, egg yolk, remainder of canned milk. Serve room temperature or slightly warmed. DO NOT reuse uneaten portions. Mixture turns into jelly when refrigerated. Keeps covered up to 2 weeks. Spoon out what you need do use. Warm before feeding.
Feeding Kittens
Be prepared for sleepless nights!
FEEDING
Cow’s milk is not nutritious enough for kittens! They will slowly starve to death on it. If you cannot get to a pet store right away, there are some emergency kitten formula recipes at the end of this section. Two kitten formula brands (KMR and Just Born) are available at pet stores.
Purchase a pet nursing kit and kitten formula, available at pet stores. The kit should include a bottle, extra nipples, and a cleaning brush. Cut an “X” in the tip of the nipple with scissors. You’ll know the nipple opening is big enough by holding the bottle upside-down. The formula will drip slowly from it. Too small an opening will make kittens work too hard to get their formula, tiring them out before they’ve had enough to eat. Too large an opening will force too much formula into them too fast. They can accidentally inhale it into their lungs. If they accidentally inhale the formula, hold them upside down until they stop choking.
Sterilize bottles, nipples and hands before each feeding. Keep a special shirt or apron in the kittens’ room and wear it while feeding (some viruses can live on clothing). Sterilize your hands with antibacterial sanitizer or water with a touch of bleach added. Sterilize before and after each feeding session so that the kittens and your own pets will be protected against one another’s germs. You can also purchase a box of latex surgical gloves and use a new pair for each feeding.
Do not hold kittens the same as human babies when feeding. Positioning for feeding is very important because this is when bonding occurs.
Kittens are most comfortable in a position similar to the way they would be if they were nursing from a momcat. They should be on their stomach with the head and chest tilted slightly upward. While nursing, they will want to “knead” instinctively, which would cause the momcat to keep producing milk. Many people find it comfortable to sit on a chair with a clean towel on their lap. They position the kitten as described, propping the chest up with their free hand to get the correct upward angle for nursing. Use a fresh towel each day to avoid germs.
To begin feeding, gently pry the mouth open with the tip of your finger and slip the nipple in. Sometimes just using the nipple to open the mouth will work. You will feel a real “vacuum effect” when the kitten gets into the suckle mode. To keep air from getting into the kitten’s stomach, hold the bottle at a 45 degree angle, keeping a light pull on the bottle. The kitten should be allowed to suck at its own pace.
If the kitten refuses to take the nipple or won’t suckle, try rubbing its forehead vigorously or stroking its back. This is the way the momcat cleans the baby and can stimulate the kitten to nurse. You might hear a “clicking” sound which means the kitten’s nursing instinct is in gear and it should be ready for the nipple. Sometimes a kitten is just picky and doesn’t like the nipple you are offering. Your bottle kit should come with different size nipples, one longer than the other. See if the kitten likes the other nipple better.
Kittens too weak to nurse can often be stimulated by rubbing some Karo syrup on the lips. If the kitten still refuses to nurse despite everything you have tried, the kitten may be ill and you must take it to a vet immediately.
A kitten should consume about 8cc’s of formula per ounce of body weight per day. Nursing bottles are marked with measurements to help keep track. Weigh the kittens at least every other day to calculate the amount of formula they need. A small postal scale should be sufficient. Kittens under one week: feed every 2-3 hours. At 2 weeks old: feed every 4-6 hours. At 3 weeks until they are weaned: feed every 6-8 hours. Divide their needed daily intake by the number of required daily feedings and you’ll know how much they should eat each time. Weak or recovering kittens may need to eat more frequently. The younger the kittens are, the more they want to “latch” on to a momcat’s nipple all the time, nursing small amounts periodically. If you notice that your kittens are not eating enough in one feeding, increase the frequency of feedings.
If you are feeding multiple kittens, it might be easier to feed the required amount if you feed them each several times, taking turns. Feed the first kitten until it stops nursing, and then feed the second, etc. Then go back to the first and repeat the rotation. Usually after 2-3 nursing turns, a kitten has had enough for one feeding.
When the kitten has had enough formula, it will usually get some bubbles around its mouth and its tummy will be very rounded. After feeding, burp the kitten just like a human baby. Hold it upright against your shoulder and pat it on the back.
Do not overfeed kittens. This can cause diarrhea and a host of other problems. Kittens under four weeks should go to sleep after they are fed and full. Older kittens will want some play and cuddle time.
It is natural for kittens to suckle on each other or on your fingers even after they have finished eating. This is harmless unless you notice that this kind of activity is causing irritation to other kittens’ fur or skin.
Keeping Fleas Off Your Kitten
The younger the kitten is, the more you must be careful when deciding to bathe it versus just “spot-bathing” it.
If your rescued kitten has fleas, the first thing to do is get a good flea comb with steel teeth and comb as many fleas out of the fur as possible. Fill a bowl with soapy water and dump the fleas in it to kill them. Keep at it in a gentle manner until you have gotten as many fleas out as possible. No matter how old the kitten is, you must remove the fleas. Fleas can kill a kitten by causing anemia, rendering the kitten weak and ill.
After you have removed as many fleas as possible, call your vet for advice on a flea spray safe to use on very young kittens. Make sure it is safe for young kittens. For tiny kittens: (after calling your vet), spray a towel and place the kitten on it for 20-30 minutes. Do not allow the kitten to inhale any fumes – keep its head raised. It is best to hold the kitten while wrapped in the towel for the 20-30 minutes to be sure it does not inhale fumes. Throw the towel away along with the dead and dying fleas that are on it. Tiny kittens are at great risk of flea-bite anemia, so a bath in gentle soap and lukewarm water might be necessary. Use a blow dryer set on warm to quickly dry the kitten, or towel-dry it. When you put the kitten back in its bed, gently use the blow dryer to warm both the bed area and the kitten so it will not become chilled. Kittens 3-4 weeks: follow the same instructions as for tiny kittens. At this point, check their ears for dirt (clean with cotton ball) or ear mites (contact your vet). Ear mites show up as “coffee-ground” type dirt.
Scratching: if the fleas have been removed and the kitten’s fur is clean, you may have to check for ringworm or mange. If the kitten is scratching and there are bare patches of missing fur, isolate the kitten from its littermates and call your vet immediately to begin treatment.
Eating On Their Own
Kittens can begin to eat on their own as early as four weeks (the same age as litter box training). You will know they are ready for weaning when they begin to bite the nipple with force and will lap formula from your fingers. This is an important step in their development. Their tummies are immature and food quality is important. Their teeth have not really developed and they are still unsteady on their little feet. Expect lots of slurpy noises (like nursing from a bottle) and lots of sitting or standing in their food bowl. Some kittens even fall asleep in their food bowl while eating! Keep your camera handy
Step 1: Get the kitten to lap from a soup spoon to get the hang of eating. After they have grasped this concept, place the food in a small flat dish until they are comfortable with this form of eating. Be patient. Most kittens bite the spoon or the edge of the dish at first and don’t seem to understand where the food is!
Step 2: Always include regular kitten formula in with the food. The first meals should mostly be made up of formula with a little human baby food mixed in. We recommend Gerber’s Baby Chicken or Beechnut Baby Chicken with NO onion or onion salt.
Some kittens start eating right away but some take a little longer. For those who take longer, continue to bottle feed until they eat on their own. The idea is to slowly reduce the amount of formula as they begin eating on their own more and more. Eventually, you will completely remove the formula from their food.
Canned kitten food is easier to mix with formula, but if you want to use dry kitten food, you must soak it thoroughly. Kittens don’t really chew their food properly until they are about 8 weeks old.
Recommended kitten foods (canned):
Nutro Max Kitten (purchase at pet store)
Dr. Hill’s A/D (purchase from vet)
Recommended kitten foods (dry):
Royal Canin for Baby Kittens (purchase at pet store)
Nutro Max Kitten (purchase at pet store)
Why Cats Need Canned Food
By Jean Hofve, DVM
Cats are true carnivores, requiring a meat-based diet for optimal health. Their natural diet is prey such as rodents, lizards, insects, and birds. These prey consist primarily of water, protein and fat, with less than 10% carbohydrate (starch, sugar and fiber) content. Cats are exquisitely adapted to utilize fat and protein for energy. They are not at all like dogs and people, who are adapted to use carbohydrates for energy.
When feeding our companion cats, the most logical strategy is to feed the diet that mot closely mimics the natural prey diet. A homemade diet is an excellent way to accomplish this. Feeding more (or only) canned food is another way – one that is often easier for people to deal with. Canned foods are higher in fat and protein, and lower in carbohydrates, than dry foods. Their high water content increases the cat’s overall fluid intake, which keeps the kidney and bladder healthy. The higher fat contributes to skin and coat health. Because the ingredients are more easily digested and utilized by the cat’s body, canned foods produce less solid waste in the litterbox.
Another feature of the cat’s natural diet is variety. A hunting cat doesn’t one day decide to eat only purple finches! He will eat any small prey he can catch: chickadees, mice, grasshoppers, robins, or rabbits. Likewise, we should feed our cats a variety of foods. Variety keeps cats from becoming finicky and food-addicted, lessens the chance of dietary excel or deficiency or any single nutrient, and may prevent the development of food intolerances, allergies, and inflammatory bowel disease. Feeding the same dry food year and year greatly increases the risk of these problems. With canned food, it is easy to vary the flavors and protein sources.
Dry food typically contains 35-50% carbohydrates, mostly as starch. (The new “grain-free” foods may be as little as 20% carbohydrate). This is necessary because the equipment that makes dry food requires a high-starch, low-fat dough for proper processing. Cereal grains provide an inexpensive and plentiful source of calories, which allows manufacturers to produce foods containing adequate calories at an affordable price. A few dry foods provide less carbohydrates, in some cases substituting starchy vegetables and soy for cereal grains; but they are still heavily processed and just as dehydrating (if not more so) that regular dry food.
Adult cats need 2-3 times more protein than dogs. Yet dry cat foods generally supply only about 1/3 more protein than dry dog foods — about 30-35% in dry cat food compared to 20-26% for the average dry dog food. “Kidney” diets for cats in renal failure are even more restrictive with 26-28% protein (such diets should never be fed to normal cats; they will cause muscle-wasting as the cat breaks down its own body for protein). Canned cat foods contain 45-50% protein, and canned kitten foods may contain up to 55% protein. (All percentages calculated on a dry matter basis.)
Senior Cats
It’s important to know that being a senior cat isn’t a health problem. While “old age” used to be blamed for almost everything, we now know that in many ways, as the say goes, “age is only a number.” Determining a cat’s age in human years isn’t a simple equation. Many sources consider cats to be a “senior” when they reach 7 years, and according to the experts at Cornell Feline Health Center, a ten-year-old cat is approximately 53 in “people years”. With rescue cats, determining age is even more difficult as they can’t tell us how old they are. Veterinarians and those familiar with cats can make an educated guess, but they really are only approximations. What’s important to know, though, is that , as with humans, cats develop age related problems at different ages, so even if you know your cat’s exact age, you can’t predict how they’ll experience the aging process.As your cat gets older, it is, unfortunately, more likely to develop some diseases. Cats are living longer and as their guardians and caretakers, we need to make sure that the added years are quality time. It is important to try to decrease risk factors for disease and to recognize changes as soon as possible so that any disease process can be stopped or at least slowed down. Older cats have immune systems that are less able to defend them against diseases. Their skin becomes thinner, circulation poorer, and this increases their chances of infection too. Often they’re not able to groom themselves as well as they did when they were younger, so they might have fur that looks “prickly” or matted, and may even develop an odor. Hearing loss and visual changes are common and may actually be quite advanced by the time you’re aware of it because cats are experts at hiding these changes and adapting to them.
Dental disease is a frequent problem in older cats. If you’ve been diligent with dental care, your cat is less likely to have severe problems, but still can get infections and gum disease that can cause intense pain. If your older cat shows signs of decreased appetite, it is important to see your veterinarian because this could be the sign of dental disease, a loss of smell, or another serious disease.
Kidney disease, hyperthyroidism, diabetes, bowel problems, and cancer are all diseases that are more common in old age. Your veterinarian can diagnose some of these diseases with simple blood tests, while others require more extensive testing.
Just as humans can become “senile” (I’m not talking just “senior moments” here!), so can your cat. Sheffield, a friend’s elderly Siamese, often paces around the house, meowing, LOUDLY, and then looking around as though to say, “Ok, this place looks familiar, but where the heck am I?” He rarely cuddles up with the other cats anymore, and that’s common with older cats who have become forgetful.
Arthritis and joint problems are also seen frequently now that cats are living longer. There are some medications that your veterinarian can order to decrease kitty’s discomfort, but it’s also important to make adjustments around your home. Make sure that the sides of the litter box aren’t too high for kitty to crawl in with his creaky bones. You make also want to create steps so she can get up to her favorite places. Many pet stores carry heated beds and these can be a real comfort for kitty.
As kitty gets older, nutritional changes are also necessary. There are many quality diets for senior cats and even diets formulated for particular diseases. Ask your veterinarian’s advise regarding the best food for your cat.
One of the most important things to remember is not to assume that ANY change in kitty’s behavior is just due to “old age.” Any change should be reported to your veterinarian and the possibility of disease should be ruled out. If a diagnosis is made, your veterinarian will work with you regarding the best treatment. If, however, kitty checks out as healthy, take a good look at your home from your older kitty’s vantage point. Is there too much activity (or maybe not enough?)? Is the food bowl too high? Is the litter box in a convenient place for a “senior citizen”? Is kitty getting enough help from you to groom himself?
Because your close monitoring is the best protection your older kitty has, you may want to do periodic exams (at least once a week). You can do this during your brushing and cuddling time by just feeling kitty’s body all over. When you’re doing frequent checks, you’ll notice new bumps and lumps quickly if they occur. You can check out the mouth and gums while doing dental care. While stroking kitty’s ears, you can gently look into the part that’s visible to see if there are any changes. Even older cats need exercise, although you’ll have to adapt this as kitty gets older. During regular exercise times you can observe to see if there are any changes in the way kitty is moving. Your veterinarian can also teach you to do a mini-physical on kitty.
Nutrition, exercise, brushing, reducing stress, and regular veterinarian visits are all important to keep your cat healthy for as many years as possible. No matter how vigilant you are, though, there will come a day when kitty’s life with you will end. Keep watching our site, we’ll talk about kitty’s final days and how to deal with the grief that accompanies it.
How can you tell when your cat is getting old? On the outside, he may look much the same, and he probably still loves to bat his toy mouse around the kitchen floor and take naps sprawled across your hand-knitted heirloom afghan. But inside his body, time may be taking its toll. Become aware of what changes to expect in his health, behavior, eating habits, and energy level as he passes from adulthood to geriatric status. Meet his needs so that you and your family can deal with the end of his life.
The Middle Years
You may barely have noticed the subtle changes your cat went through in his first years of life, but when he approaches his equivalent of human middle age — somewhere between the ages of 8 and 12 — start paying extra attention. In fact, you should actually alter how you care for your cat, says Dr. Gary Norsworthy, a veterinarian and the editor of Current Feline Practice. “Middle-aged cats should have a normal level of activity and appetite,” he says. “But owners will find their veterinarian focusing on age-related problems, such as diabetes, kidney failure, and dental health.”
Your veterinarian may also recommend that you modify your cat’s diet as a preventive measure. “A balanced, easily digested diet can benefit his aging system,” says Norsworthy. “Many cats that die of so-called old age actually die of kidney or liver failure.”The Later StagesSome veterinarians believe that cats reach their geriatric years around age 12. Other experts are more generous, categorizing cats as being old at about 15. When your cat is between the ages of 12 and 15, be on the lookout for changes in behavior. You may notice that he catnaps a lot more. It’s normal for some old cats to sleep more than 18 hours a day.As a cat increases in age, his joints may stiffen and become painful to move, making him lethargic about many types of activities, even his grooming ritual. But before you decide to do a thorough brushing for him, ask your veterinarian to make sure your cat is not seriously ill — a lack of desire to groom can also be a sign of sickness.
Because an older cat rests more and moves less, he may need fewer calories. Your veterinarian can suggest ways to reduce his caloric intake and still make sure he gets all the nutrients his aging system needs. And however tempting it may be to treat him to table scraps, it’s really not wise. Overfeeding a cat at any age — especially with fatty foods — is actually setting him up for obesity and related health problems in the future.
Above all, you’ll need to start watching your geriatric cat very closely for hints of illness. “Cats tend to be more subtle than dogs when it comes to showing they’re sick” says Dr. Barbara Stein, owner of the Chicago Cat Clinic, “because instinct tells them that — as in the wild — to show some type of problem is to become prey.” After weeks of seeming healthy, a cat suddenly may display signs of being very ill, catching his owner off guard. Too often, pet owners hope a small problem will go away, only to seek their veterinarian’s advice when their cat is beyond help. Below is a chart that will help you track your aging cat’s health and promptly react to warning signals.
Saying Goodbye
Even if your cat isn’t extremely old, you may have reason to consider the emotion-laden option of euthanasia — also called putting a cat to sleep or humanely destroying him. Dr. Stein reminds pet owners to put their cat first: “There is a difference between being alive and just living.”It may be time to end your pet’s life if his condition is irreversible and in spite of medical care, his quality of life is inadequate. But even knowing that these situations hold true for your cat doesn’t mean it’s easy to consider euthanasia. Many experts advise that the whole family should decide as a group whether to have their cat euthanized. Parents with younger children may choose to make the decision and then give the children a chance to say goodbye to their pet.
Be careful about using the phrase “put to sleep” when explaining the decision to children, who then may be afraid to sleep themselves or may expect the cat to wake up in the future. Tell them that the cat isn’t going to get better and that ending his life is a loving way to end his pain. Answer your children’s questions as honestly as possible, and let them cry and grieve. Some veterinarians let the pet owners be present when the cat is euthanized, but check with your veterinarian ahead of time if you would like to be there.
Thankfully, emotional support during this time is available. Take advantage of your local animal rescue group or your veterinarian. There are numerous books available to help you and your children cope with the loss. There are groups available through the Internet who are there to help you. Whichever way you choose, take advantage of it to help you and your family get through your grief.
Lifetimes …
Birth to 16 weeks: Kitten is just learning his way around; somewhat playful; often shy.
16 weeks to 1 year: Still a kitten, cat is now very playful; should be spayed or neutered by 5 months of age to prevent pregnancy in females, fighting in males, and marking in both sexes.
1 to 8 years: The young cat is in his prime; his personality emerges.
8 to 12 years: The pregeriatric cat may start to slow down, but his behavior often doesn’t change much; preventive medicine may make a big difference at this stage of life.
12+ years: Cat enters old age; health problems may show up (see “Signs of Seniority”); pace slows, sleeps more; may be easily irritated.
Ten Reasons Senior Cats Rule
By Jane Harrell, Petfinder.com associate producer
As mom to three “older” cats, I consider senior-cat adoption a cause near and dear to my heart. If you have a friend who’s thinking of adopting — or if you’re considering adding a new cat family member yourself — read and share this list:
1. When senior cats are adopted, they seem to understand that they’ve been rescued, and are all the more thankful for it.
2. A senior cat’s personality has already developed, so you’ll know if he or she is a good fit for your family.
3. You can teach an old cat new tricks (I do every day with my own cats!): Senior cats have the attention span and impulse control that makes them easier to train than their youthful counterparts.
4. A senior cat may very well already know basic household etiquette (like not attacking your feet at night) anyway!
5. In particular, senior cats are often already litter trained and are less likely to “forget” where the box is.
6. Senior cats are often content to just relax in your company, unlike younger cats, who may get into mischief because they’re bored.
7. Speaking of relaxing, senior cats make great napping buddies.
8. Senior cats often know that scratching posts (not furniture) are for scratching and toys (not hands or feet) are for biting.
9. A senior cat won’t grow any larger, so you’ll know exactly how much cat you’re getting.
10. Senior cats are some of the hardest to find homes for – so when you adopt a senior cat, you are truly saving a life.
Inflammatory Bowel Disease
As a veterinarian, I have heard this story many times from frustrated clients. They arrive home and are greeted with a smelly disaster in their kitchen or living room, courtesy of the dog or cat. These animals don’t mean to make a gastrointestinal mess (which often seems disproportionately large compared to the size of the animal). The culprit is inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), a condition that can lead to uncontrollable and unpredictable bouts of vomiting and diarrhea.
CAUSES AND SYMPTOMS
IBD results from the infiltration of inflammatory cells into the mucosa (lining) of the intestines. Diagnosis is frequently made from observed signs and/or the resolution of these signs with dietary changes. However, confirmation usually requires a biopsy of the intestine, either surgically or during an endoscopic examination of the stomach and bowel.
The most common pathologic diagnosis is lymphocytic-plasmacytic enteritis or enterocolitis, but other types of IBD include eosinophilic enteritis, suppurative colitis and granulomatous enterocolitis. Chronic inflammation can increase in severity over time if not properly addressed, and in cats, this inflammation can lead to cancer. Gastrointestinal lymphoma can be a consequence of long-standing IBD in cats.
The signs of IBD are related to the gastrointestinal tract, and include (but are not limited to) chronic diarrhea, vomiting, anorexia (not eating), lethargy and weight loss. Being perverse, cats can show increased appetite (polyphagia) instead. In severe cases of intestinal inflammation, animals can lose protein through the bowel wall; this is known as protein-losing enteropathy. If the protein loss is severe enough, edema in the limbs or underside of the belly can occur.
THERE ARE A VARIETY OF CAUSES OF IBD IN DOGS AND CATS:
The most common is food allergy or intolerance. Antigens (proteins) in the animal’s food stimulate an immune response, resulting in inflammation of the intestines.
Another potential cause is chronic stress or anxiety. While the exact mechanism is not understood, it is conceivable that chronic stress can manifest as gastrointestinal symptoms. Anyone who has ever had to bolt to the bathroom during a stressful event would agree.
Another cause is the overuse of antibiotics, which creates an environment of “dysbiosis”. Proponents of this theory believe that antibiotic use (or the ingestion of any substance that can harm bacteria in the gut) creates an imbalance between the “protective” and “harmful” bacteria in the intestines. As the “harmful” bacteria increase in numbers, inflammation ensues.
THERE ARE MANY TREATMENT OPTIONS
Once a diagnosis of IBD has been made, there are a variety of treatment options to consider.
Conventional treatment includes medications to mediate symptoms, such as anti-emetics for vomiting and antibiotics for diarrhea. The underlying inflammation can be treated with immune-suppressants such as steroids or cyclosporine.
The other commonly used treatment involves prescription diets that utilize a variety of mechanisms to decrease the antigens in the food and allow the inflammation in the bowel to subside. Some diets limit the numbers of antigenic ingredients; for example, by reducing the number of protein sources. Another tactic is to hydrolyze the proteins. This means the protein molecules are broken down to a size that is too small to stimulate the immune response. These diets may also avoid other common allergens, such as corn, soy and wheat. Some people wish to home-cook or use raw diet options. It can be difficult to formulate a diet that is complete and meets your dog or cat’s daily vitamin and mineral needs, however, so if you wish to home-prepare your animal’s food, consult with an integrative or holistic veterinarian first.
Alternative therapies that can help with IBD may be used on their own or to supplement conventional treatment.
Acupuncture may not be the first thing that jumps to mind when treating gastrointestinal problems, but it can be helpful for the acute symptoms of vomiting and cramping that cause abdominal pain.
Chinese herbs can also effectively deal with intestinal cramping and spasm, while addressing the underlying inflammation. There are many Chinese herbal formulas that treat a variety of disease patterns, such as Dampness or Stasis in the Stomach. While these herbs are readily available, a veterinarian trained in Chinese herbals will help direct you to the appropriate formula for your dog or cat’s specific pattern of symptoms.
Western herbs can also help treat IBD in animals; they have anti-inflammatory, anti-spasmodic and immuno-modulatory effects. Immuno-modulatory herbs can influence the function of the immune system – in this case, decreasing the gut’s over-responsiveness. Examples of herbs that are helpful for intestinal issues include chamomile, calendula, astragalus and slippery elm bark. Again, a veterinarian trained in herbal treatments will help you select the correct herbs for your own companion’s particular situation.
Dietary supplements are another option to consider.
Probiotics are good for a variety of conditions. They can aid in the absorption of nutrients and vitamins, as well as assist with the digestion of carbohydrates and short chain fatty acids.
Omega fatty acids are have anti-inflammatory properties and are frequently recommended to treat arthritis and allergic skin disease.
Vitamins can also be helpful for animals with IBD. Those with severe conditions may have difficulty absorbing the nutrients in their food, and supplementation ensures they won’t suffer from deficiencies. You need to be careful, however, as it is easy to go overboard with vitamins, the variety of available products is dizzying, and there are many unreliable products on the market. If your veterinarian feels that vitamin supplementation is needed, consult with him or her about which products they trust.
If your dog or cat has been diagnosed with IBD, fear not. There are many options for treatment, and with the right combination of therapies for your animal’s individual needs, unwanted symptoms can be well-managed. Most animals with IBD live normal lives. With the help of your veterinarian and some patience, you can look forward to fewer messes and a happier, healthier companion.
Diarrhea
Diarrhea can be life-threatening to a kitten. It drains the body of essential fluids and causes dehydration. When dealing with diarrhea, there can be several reasons to think about:
Worms and/or parasites
Underfeeding or overfeeding
Illness
Improper hygiene (you may not be cleaning the kitten’s fur properly and it is ingesting bacteria)• WHAT IS NORMAL: Poop should be brown and solidly formed.Checking a kitten’s poop may not be the best job in the world, but it can save lives. As with humans, color indicates health.• ABNORMAL STOOL – SEE VET IMMEDIATELY:
Black: might indicate bleeding in the upper portion of bowel.
Bloody: bright red blood seen in the stool might indicate illness such as panleukopenia.
Mucous: yellowish/white/clear slimy substance might indicate severe bowel irritation.
Orange: too much bile in stool perhaps occurring with reflux.
White: very abnormal, indicating severe bacterial imbalance and severe bowel infection.
Yellow: bacterial imbalance in bowel. The diarrhea is usually related to coccidia.
CONSISTENCY OF ABNORMAL STOOL – SEE VET IMMEDIATELY:
Cow-patty: not formed but thick enough to fall into a “cow-patty” shape.
Dry/hard: usually indicates dehydration.
Formed but soft: low range of “normal.” If stool becomes soft, go to vet.
Liquidy: fluid coming out of rectum, thin, with or without mucous.
Squirty: no control over bowel. Watery fluid squirts out of rectum.
Toothpaste: somewhat tubular but falls apart when touched.
URINE AND WHAT TO WATCH FOR
Water in, urine out! That’s the way a normal body functions. This is why keeping your kitten well -hydrated is so important. We have already mentioned that there are times when a weaker kitten may need subcutaneous fluids to help maintain good hydration. Since we cannot be there every minute to watch the kitten urinate, we can at least watch carefully to see the color of the urine and take appropriate action. As a means of monitoring the kittens’ urine, place the kitten on a pan with a clean white paper towel until it urinates. The color will be evident.
WHAT IS NORMAL: Urine should be mid-to-light yellow.
ABNORMAL URINE – SEE VET IMMEDIATELY:
Severely dilute (clear) urine: Risk of over-hydration. Seek attention.
Concentrated (dark yellow) urine: Insufficient hydration. Needs immediate care.
WHAT IS HYDRATION?
Hydration has to do with the amount of fluid in the body. A normal intake of fluid creates a healthy skin “turgor” whereas not enough fluid intake creates a situation that can be life- threatening if not dealt with immediately. “Snap back” is the amount of time it takes for the skin to return to normal after being lifted. Using thumb and index finger, pull the skin between the shoulder blades straight up and see how long it takes for the skin to snap back to normal.
Immediate snap back: excellent hydration. Monitor for over-hydration at this stage.
Quick snap but not immediate: hydrated. Monitor to be sure kitten has adequate fluid intake.
Snap back within one second: adequate hydration. Monitor closely for other at-risk signs.
Snap back 1-3 seconds: dehydrated. Needs immediate attention.
Stands up on own: severe dehydration. Dying. See vet immediately.
Dealing With Poop
HELPING KITTENS ELIMINATE and LITTER BOX TRAINING
You have probably seen momcats stimulating their babies to urinate and defecate by licking their hind quarters. This job is now up to you, and the younger the kitten is, the more important this becomes. Young kittens cannot urinate or defecate on their own.
After each feeding, hold the kitten so that you can gently massage the lower abdomen, genital and rectal areas to stimulate urination and/or defecation. Use a warm moist paper towel, small piece of cloth, cotton ball or cotton pad.
Massage only enough to stimulate. Too much and you might irritate the tender skin and cause chafing.
Be sure the area is clean and dry when you put the kitten back in its bed.
Kittens will almost always urinate. They should defecate at least once a day. It may take up to one minute of gentle massage before a kitten “poops,” so be patient. If a kitten does not defecate after two days, call your vet or rescue organization for advice.
Kittens are usually ready for litter box training at about 4 weeks old. Do not use self- clumping litter at this point. There are several litter brands available made from recycled paper which are harmless to the kitten. This is what we recommend in the beginning.
Don’t expect miracles at first. Place the kitten in a shallow pan (aluminum foil cookie sheets are disposable). The kitten’s first reaction might be to try to eat the litter. Wait to see what the kitten does. The pan is shallow enough for the kitten to walk out of it so it won’t be afraid of the pan.
If the kitten does not seem to know what to do, place it in the “litter box,” gently take a front paw and make a “covering” motion in the litter.
If the kitten does urinate or defecate, do not clean this immediately. The kitten will be attracted to its own odor and understand that this is where to eliminate
Dealing with Feline Acne
Everyone’s been there. Graduation day, prom night, your wedding arrives, you look in the mirror and there it is — acne! But did you know your cat can get acne, too?
Recognizing Acne: Feline acne is a localized infection and almost always affects the chin area. It usually starts as small, oily black plugs in the chin — much like blackheads — sometimes progressing into inflamed pustules or pimples. The condition is caused by infected (or plugged) hair follicles. Grooming the chin area is difficult for kitty, which leads to a build-up of dirt and oil, and eventually, acne. Possible causes of feline acne vary, and include food allergies, contact allergies, lack of cleanliness, and even stress. However, plastic food and water dishes are major culprits. Plastic is a magnet for bacteria (which may irritate your cat’s skin, causing the acne) and dirt that work their way into scratches and nicks, continually infecting your cat.
Switching to glass, ceramic or stainless steel bowls is the best solution, along with thoroughly washing your cat’s dishes every day. Cats with flat faces, such as Persians and Exotics, are particularly susceptible to feline acne and may need your assistance in cleaning their chins after meals. Treatment options vary, but most veterinarians will recommend daily cleaning of the affected area with an antibiotic soap, followed by a topical ointment, either antibiotic or anti-fungal. Oral antibiotics may also be prescribed, as well as a scrub with hydrogen peroxide.
NEVER try to pop or drain the pustules, as this spreads the infection and furthers the problem. When feline acne does not respond to topical treatment, there are a couple of things to consider. The first one is whether or not it really is feline acne. It may be one of the conditions that can mimic feline acne, such as ringworm, food allergies, yeast infections, or demodectic mange. If it is feline acne and conventional treatments aren’t working, your veterinarian should culture one of the pustules, and then choose an oral or systemic antibiotic based on the culture results. Feline acne can turn into serious infection, so don’t take it lightly. Talk to your veterinarian about the best course of action.
Tooth Resorption
Tooth resorption is one of the most common dental problems suffered by cats, second only to periodontal disease, according to the American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS). The AVDS estimates that 72% of cats age 5 or over have at least one oral resorptive lesion. Is your cat among them? Unfortunately, you may not be able to tell.Resorptive lesions start below the gum line, at the root of the tooth, and progress up through the inside of the tooth. Without treatment, this painful process will cause swollen gums and holes in the surface of the tooth. In other words, your cat may suffer silently for a long time before you are able to see the problem. Tooth resorption can cause so much pain that, under general anesthetic, the cat will react when the lesion is touched. Yet most cats don’t show obvious signs of pain at home. “Pets are very good at hiding their pain,” says Brett Beckman, DVM, president of AVDS. “Occasionally we see reluctance to eat, but this is very unusual.” Eventually the affected tooth will collapse in on itself and dissolve.
Detection and Treatment
Your veterinarian knows what to look for and where to look. Beckman and the American Veterinary Dental College recommend all cats have a professional dental examination and cleaning each year. Cats with a history of resorptive lesions should be seen twice annually. During the exam, your veterinarian will look at your cat’s mouth and teeth for red gums and unusual tissue growth. X-rays are almost always necessary to detect developing resorptive lesions and determine the extent of the damage.
Your cat will be sedated with general anesthetic during these procedures so that all surfaces of the teeth and gums can be examined and cleaned with the least amount of stress and discomfort to your pet. (See “Veterinarians Recommend Anesthesia for Dental Cleanings” for more about anesthesia and dental exams.) If your cat is diagnosed with tooth resorption, your veterinarian will likely recommend removing the tooth. The goals of treatment are to relieve your cat’s pain, prevent the disease from continuing, and restore function of the mouth. Usually, attempts to save the tooth are unsuccessful. “Restoration isn’t recommended because this condition comes from inside the tooth, unlike human cavities which are on the outside of the tooth,” explains Beckman.
Prevention
Although feline resorptive lesions are being studied, the cause is not known. One theory is that they are the result of periodontal disease. Many cats do have both conditions, although some have lesions only. Your best bet is to combine annual veterinary exams with regular at-home care. Your veterinarian can show you how to brush your cat’s teeth and use oral rinses. Be sure to use toothpaste made specifically for cats. Never use baking soda or human toothpaste Cats don’t spit – at least not when you want them to – and ingesting human toothpaste or baking soda can cause stomach upset. Also, many types of human toothpaste contain Xylitol, a sweetener that is highly toxic to dogs and possibly other animals as well. The Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) awards a Seal of Acceptance to products that meet their standards. The list is on the VOHC website.
What Is Periodontal Disease?
Periodontal disease is the most prevalent of all veterinary disease — not just dental diseases, but all veterinary diseases combined. It affects the supporting structure of the teeth, and eventually leads to breakdown of tooth attachment. Plaque causes gingivitis, which is an early stage of periodontal problems. Gingivitis is reversible, but if not treated will progress to periodontal disease. Dental care of dogs and cats is one of the most commonly overlooked areas of pet health care; however, it is necessary to provide optimum health and quality of life. Diseases of the oral cavity, if left untreated, are often painful and can lead to more serious health problems including heart, lung and kidney disease.
There are two critical components of your pet’s veterinary dental care: oral examinations and dental cleanings. Veterinary dental care begins at the puppy and kitten life stage. As your pet ages, your veterinarian will look for developmental anomalies, the accumulation of plaque and tartar, periodontal disease and oral tumors. Veterinarians can perform a basic oral examination on patients that are awake. However, when a cleaning is required, your pet will need to be induced under general anesthesia wherein a thorough examination will be done prior to the cleaning. Dental cleanings performed while your pet is awake is not only dangerous for the team member performing the cleaning but dangerous to your pet as well.
Since there is an element of risk associated with any medical procedure, it is important that safety precautions are used. Among the many standards in the dentistry section, AAHA accreditation requires that veterinarians perform thorough examinations of the teeth and structures of the oral cavity in patients presented for dental procedures and only properly trained practice team members perform dental procedures. Additionally, AAHA Standards recommend that dental procedures are accompanied by pain assessment and appropriate pain treatment.
Fighting Cats
We all start out with high hopes of our darling, loving, little kittens growing up and staying that way. However, Mother Nature has other plans for cats that live in groups. It is that way with all animals everywhere. There can be only one leader and the rest must fall in line. We humans never think about that and totally misunderstand our beautiful felines when they follow their instincts.
As a rule, cats live peacefully together. They will share food and water dishes and sleep and play together. Unfortunately, the feline world isn’t always peaceful, and fighting or “arguing” can occur. You should be aware of their pecking order so you know who is the alpha cat. If you witness a conflict, do not reach your hands in the middle of the fight or you will be hurt.
Rather than reaching your hands in, try to distract your cats by throwing something noisy nearby or splash a small amount of water on them. You might even try to toss a blanket over the weaker one. Once separated, place the cats in different rooms with their own dishes and litter boxes and a little soft music. Give both parties some time to settle down before allowing contact with each other or with children.
Of course, preventing a fight is always better than breaking one up. If you notice that one of the cats in your home is hogging the toys, resting places, food bowls, etc., a conflict is more likely to occur. Step in and make sure all cats have access to a litterbox, food, water, toys, and a comfortable place to rest in different areas of the house. If you notice any unusual irritability or aggression, speak with a veterinarian to rule out anything medical first.
Be aware that there is a pecking order with your cats and learn how to handle the situations accordingly. In the animal world, the alpha or aggressor must receive all the attention first, such as being greeted by name, food, petting, etc. All others fall in place behind the alpha. By reinforcing the alpha position in your house, there will almost always be peace.
Debrah Regal
Founder, Valley Cats, Inc.
www.valleycatsinc.org
Urinating in the House
One of the main reasons people give up their cats is because they stopped using the litterbox and the owners no longer want to deal with the inappropriate urination in their house. We are not veterinarians, but we have come across many cats over the years who do not use the litterbox. Please remember that any advice we give here comes from our experiences with these “problem cats” and what we have done to handle the situation.
RULES AND SUGGESTIONS:
Always go to your vet before doing anything else to make sure there is no blood in the urine or stones blocking the cat from urinating. The cat may also be suffering from a urinary tract infection and medication may be the answer to your problem. If you think of the litterbox as the cat’s “telephone,” he is certainly not going to broadcast that he is not feeling well. He will try to hide his illness by soiling the carpets and floors rather than use his box.
Cats are clean animals by nature and their litterboxes should be kept very clean, especially if you are using a covered box. The ammonia fumes from the urine get trapped and the cat may not want to step inside. The litterbox should be cleaned twice a day and fresh litter added as needed. The litterbox should be washed and disinfected at least once a week with a gentle cleaning solution not dangerous to the cat.
The rule is one litterbox for each cat plus an extra one. This may not always be possible if you don’t have enough space, but make very sure you keep the litterboxes VERY clean. Many cats don’t like to share litterboxes and some cats urinate in one box and poop in the other.
Is there a litterbox on each level (upstairs and downstairs) or at each far end of your house? This can really help, especially with very young, very old or ill cats.
QUESTIONS:
Is your cat spayed or neutered? If not, problems can occur when there is a territory dispute in the house.
Is the litterbox in a quiet, out-of-the-way place where the cat is not disturbed when using it?
Is the cat being bothered by another cat or dog or child when trying to use the litterbox?
Have you tried changing the type of litter you are using? Many cats prefer litter that feels like garden soil rather than the feel of some of the pellets or stones on the market today. Also, your cat may not like scented litter and you might want to try the non-scented type.
Is the litterbox the correct height and size for the cat? Senior cats and kittens usually need lower sides on the litterbox. Large size cats like to “stretch out” when using the litterbox.
OTHER REASONS:
Is the food of a good quality and does your cat enjoy eating it?
Do you take your cat to the vet each year and have his teeth checked? Infected teeth and gums can be a major source of pain and illness. Have his ears and feet checked as well. Bring a stool sample and have his urine checked.
If you allow your cat to go outside, he may have lost interest in his litterbox because he has a much larger “territory” to take care of outside. Sometimes the inside and the outside become the same to the cat and he makes no distinction when he urinates. Keep him inside and see if this changes things.
ONE MORE THING:
In the last few months, we have taken in cats from owners who have been told that their cat was displaying bad behavior because the urine seemed normal. In several cases, we had x-rays taken and found stones or gravel in the urinary tract. Two of the cats actually required abdominal surgery to remove stones that they could not possibly pass on their own. They now use their litterboxes regularly. It is believed that the cat associates the litterbox with pain and therefore stops using it. Please ask your vet to take x-rays before making a decision about “bad behavior.”
GET HELP:
Always remember that you can call your local cat rescue organization or your vet for advice on house-soiling problems. It isn’t always bad behavior!
If Your Cat Gets Out
It is always a good thing if your cat is microchipped. If he gets out, notify your microchip company and the organization from which you adopted him immediately. They will be on the lookout for people calling to say your cat is found. Most microchips are magnetic, not electronic like a GPS. Any veterinarian or animal shelter should scan him if he is brought to them. His microchip number will link to you and to the rescue group and hopefully you will get him back. Of course, this depends on the microchip form either being mailed to the company or registered with them.
Always have a current photo of your cat handy to make flyers. Flyers should be posted if your cat is not found within several hours. Your neighbors’ mailboxes and vet clinics, pet stores, and any other place where the flyer is visible is important to do. Once is not enough. Post flyers every week for at least one month.
In the meantime, in hot weather, leave lots of water and dry food at the door where he got out from. Take off clothes that you JUST wore and leave the clothes with the food and water. He will be scared and hiding in bushes or under something nearby. Walk around slowly and call his name. STAND STILL and listen for him to make a sound. You had about one minute to catch him when he went out the door. After that, if something scared him, he went somewhere to hide.
Indoor cats are not street-smart so don’t think they will be OK out there. Leave food, use your voice calmly to call him, and don’t give up. Your cat would much rather be home with you snoozing in his cat bed.
Debrah Regal
Founder, Valley Cats, Inc.
www.valleycatsinc.org
Shelter Cats and Stress
Research is finding that shelter conditions make cats sick from the stress. Pennsylvania veterinarian Michael Moyer said he used to think cats were better off in shelters than out in the elements. Even if they were put to sleep, he assumed they’d die a worse death on the mean city streets. But after years specializing in shelter medicine and running a Chester County shelter, he has changed his mind. Part of the problem is that shelter conditions fine for small dogs will make cats sick from stress, said Moyer, who lectured last month as part of the Penn Science Cafe series, held at the MarBar, 40th and Walnut Streets. Stress can also make shelter cats temporarily antisocial, thus killing any hope they might have of being adopted, Moyer said. More than 7,000 cats are euthanized in Philadelphia shelters every year, many for behavior or health problems.
“It was kind of a ‘no duh’ moment,” said Moyer, when he realized shelters were not very sheltering for felines. “Cats are different in so many physiological and medical ways. And yet we treat them like they’re small dogs.” Dogs love novelty, change of scenery, and, in most cases, car rides. “Cats – not so much,” he said. One of his more counterintuitive discoveries was that keeping the cages sparkling clean makes cats sicker. That’s because a cat will get comfort from anything familiar – even a piece of old newspaper covered in cat dander. When you remove what the cat considers its possessions, however meager, “cats will wig out,” he said. Disinfecting their cages with chemicals scares them even more by destroying any scent that has become familiar.
Cats also need more space than the same-size dogs, he said, and typical 2-foot-square cages force them to eat close to their litter boxes. That distresses them just as it would for people to eat in the bathroom. Stress makes cats sick by allowing latent viruses to emerge and spread, he said. Strays carry a number of pathogens, including herpes and calicivirus. And while these illnesses may not be deadly, cats that get ill in shelters are likelier to be euthanized.
“There’s no shortage of cats,” Moyer said. So there’s usually little hope for an asocial, frightened cat in a shelter, even though these animals might be capable of friendly, affectionate behavior under better conditions. Research is starting to back up the observations that cats need different conditions from dogs, said Julie Levy, a shelter specialist with the University of Florida School of Veterinary Medicine. “Every shelter in the United States was built around the concept that you can stuff a cat in a small cage,” she said. “It’s extremely stressful for the cats – they have no control.”
Luckily, cat shelter care is evolving fast, said Aime Berman, medical director for the Philadelphia SPCA. She said she was excited about a new set of guidelines laying out five “freedoms” that cats need to maintain emotional and physical health – including cage space and behavioral enrichment. One such tool she uses are special cat videos that show dogs, cockroaches, and other cats cavorting. The cats become more active after viewing them, she said. The downside is that abiding by these freedoms is expensive, considering how many people here abandon cats or fail to get them spayed or neutered.
More than 18,000 cats were taken into Philadelphia’s shelters during 2010, according to the SPCA’s website. Of those, only 103 were reunited with owners; 7,280 were euthanized; and 1,677 died or could not be accounted for. Only 3,583 were adopted. Moyer says he’s convinced that cats are better off avoiding shelters. He and others at the Penn vet school do the surgeries for programs that try to limit stray-cat populations by neutering or spaying them, and putting them back out on the streets. Such cats also get rabies shots. Several thousand Philadelphia strays are neutered or spayed every year by SPCA and other animal-welfare groups. Moyer said students at the Penn vet school were on track to do about 3,700 such surgeries this year, some of which are strays to be returned to the streets.
In the city, “cats can live a pretty respectable cat life,” he said. “We tend to think their lives must be nasty, brutish, and short, but they live about as long on average as house cats.” There’s often ample food among the rats, mice, pigeons, and Dumpsters. In more-suburban areas, however, stray and feral cats may create problems by eating songbirds. And unvaccinated strays can pick up rabies from raccoons or other wild animals. Florida’s Levy has done studies showing that so-called trap-neuter-return programs can control smaller populations. In one Florida study, such a program reduced a growing colony of 100 feral cats to just 10 geriatric cats. In Philly, however, there are hundreds of thousands of stray cats, and they may be multiplying faster than they can be trapped and neutered.
Levy sees the ultimate hope in nonsurgical contraception – maybe an injectable vaccine that cats could get, replacing the need for surgery. Some new research shows that cat fertility is curbed by a vaccine that was developed to control deer. When injected, she said, the vaccine blocks a hormone in the brain called GnRH – a kind of master switch behind the whole reproductive cycle. It works in males and females and also seems to make cats behave as if they were neutered. So the male cats are not compelled to fight or spray urine around.
Moyer said he didn’t want to take away from the hard work that’s done in shelters – much of it by volunteers. The problems faced by cats in shelters are caused, ultimately, by irresponsible people who fail to spay or neuter their pets or who get a pet without considering that it’s a years-long commitment.
The Primordial Pouch
You know that piece of skin that hangs down under your cat’s belly? The one that sways from side to side when he walks or runs? Well, it’s not fat and it’s not because he/she has been spayed or neutered. It’s called the Primordial Pouch and can be seen in both males and females.
People make fun of the pouch, which is just excess skin and fat and seems to be empty and flabby when you feel it. However, the Primordial Pouch does serve an important purpose not only for our tame cats but for the larger predator cats in the wild.
FIGHTING
The pouch acts as extra padding and protection during a fight. Cats kick each other in the belly with their hind legs during a fight and the pouch protects their organs. People are always saying how cats can twist around and get out of small spaces. This is because they also have loose skin on the rest of their bodies to help them wiggle free when grabbed by a predator.
MOVING FREELY
The Primordial Pouch, or belly flap, allows the cat to stretch and move easily when running, jumping, or twisting around. Wild cats also have Primordial Pouches for the same reason.
STORING FOOD
Biologists think these pouches allow extra room to expand when gorging on their kills, since they do not always eat daily. However, we must be careful not to let our pet cat gorge and store food in her pouch and become obese.
Debrah Regal
Founder, Valley Cats, Inc.
www.valleycatsinc.org
Fascinating Facts
Did you know?
Each day 10,000 humans are born in the U.S. – and each day 70,000 puppies and kittens are born. As long as these birth rates exist, there will never be enough homes for all the animals. As a result, millions of healthy, loving cats, dogs, kittens and puppies face early deaths as a form of animal control. Others are left to fend for themselves against automobiles, the elements, animals and cruel humans. What can you do to stop the suffering? Spay and neuter your pets! Work with Valley Cats and together we can make a difference.
An unsprayed female cat, her mate and all of their offspring, producing 2 litters per year with 2.8 surviving kittens per litter can total:
1 year: 12
2 years: 67
3 years: 376
4 years: 2,107
5 years: 11,801
6 years: 66,088
7 years: 370,092
8 years: 2,072,514
9 years: 11,606,707
Most people don’t know that a cat can have her first litter at the age of four months, and just one litter means that five more good homes must be found! That is why there are so many strays, and why our shelters are full of cats. Do your cat, and everyone a favor …
SPAY YOUR CAT BY THE AGE OF FOUR MONTHS ~ BEFORE HER FIRST LITTER!
Why your cat should be spayed or neutered:
SPAYED (Female)
No heat cycles
Less desire to roam
Risk of mammary gland tumors, ovarian and/or uterine cancer is reduced or eliminated
Number of unwanted cats/kittens is at an all-time high
NEUTERED (Male)
Reduces or eliminates risk of spraying and marking
Less desire to roam
Risk of testicular cancer is eliminated
Number of unwanted cats/kittens is at an all-time high
PURRING – NOT ALWAYS WHAT YOU THINK
The purr is probably the most singular sound in the feline vocabulary. Unlike the meow, which some people pride themselves on mimicking reasonably well, the purr is a sound that can’t be duplicated with the human mouth and vocal cords. The whirring sound your cat makes when he purrs is created by air passing over his larynx both as he inhales and as he exhales. It’s an effortless sound to make; he could carry it on indefinitely if he wanted to. The purr is one of the most misunderstood feline communications. Many cat owners who thought their cat was expressing contentment have been shocked to get scratched or bitten in their confusion. Cats do purr when they are content. When a mother cat is purring, her kittens are comforted by it. When the kittens purr, she knows they are content and nursing.
Cats can also purr when they are in pain or discomfort. That discomfort can be caused by a physical problem (purring in labor is not uncommon), or it can be caused by an uncomfortable situation. For example, when your petting hand has worn out its welcome, the cat will purr louder and more intensely. The cat will also put its ears back and fan out its whiskers so they come forward. This means the cat is saying he’s irritated, not “I’m enjoying this,” by a long shot. “We don’t know which emotion is affiliated with an aggravated purr, but it seems to result from over stimulation,” explains Dr. Wright. “The position of the ears and whiskers is the best cue owners can watch to avoid being scratched or bitten.”
THE CAT IN YOUR LIFE
It is one of those awful days when your alarm never goes off and you spend the entire day playing catch up. While you are running yourself ragged over projects and errands, your car gives in to old age and goes caput. After the tow truck takes your car and patience away, it is time to call it a day. Your anxiety and frustration level has hit its all time high. Finally when you make it home you are greeted by two of your biggest fans, Oscar and Sasha, two wonderful felines adopted from the local rescue group. An uneventful day has yet to occur since their arrival.
Still reeling from the day’s events, you make your way to the room, but not without Sasha doing her usual swift body run against your leg. After dropping your bags and settling in, Oscar makes his way on to your lap and signals that he would enjoy a few scratches behind the ear and neck. As you engage, your body slowly starts to unwind. Your breathing starts to relax. Tension drains from your shoulders. A smile comes about without any force. Before you know it, both you and Oscar are at peace enjoying the moment. In these simple moments, thoughts of the day have drifted further from your mind and your anxiety level has dropped, helping you let go of negative feelings that have accumulated over the last 10 hours.
Sounds unbelievable that a cat can do all this? Well, it is true. Studies have shown that the mere act of stroking a cat for several minutes helps to release “feel good” endorphins in the brain, producing the feeling of tranquility in the stroker. But petting alone is not the only stress reliever. Depression and sadness are heightened by loneliness or a sense of isolation. Pets offer constant companionship and unconditional love. For instance, when the kids have gone off to school or a spouse is lost, being home alone can be overwhelming. But if you have an Oscar or a Sasha to keep you company while reading the morning paper, loneliness isn’t all-encompassing. Their presence helps to contribute to a complete home.
Nurturing a cat is soothing and fulfills that certain need for humans to be caregivers. Shopping takes on an additional dimension when you have a cat at home. Food, litter and toys need to be added to your cart. What fun awaits when you have new treats and toys for the loyal kitty! Cats love to explore and see what is in that shopping bag or behind that most fascinating closet door. Joining in on some interactive cat play with a new feather wand or a kitty fishing pole lightens up your mood. Laughter and smiles seem to come when they usually wouldn’t.
In order to protect our health, studies have shown friends and family support is essential. Pets help us sustain that healthy emotional balance when we treat them as family or friends. Having a cat around contributes to the feeling of family, therefore contributes to a healthy balance. Pet owners enter hospitals less frequently than non-pet owners; and when hospitalized, pet owners have shorter stays. Pet keepers have a reason to get better. They have to get home to the cat!
Black & White Cats
Did you know that there are two original primary colors in cats – black and red? White is only a masking gene, so it actually hides – or masks – all other color. So a dark black and white cat is really a black cat with white spotting because the white only hides some of a cat’s color instead of all of it.
Cats with beautiful white markings might have larger or smaller areas of white. If you want to describe your cat’s color more precisely, there are different names for the different amounts of white no matter if your feline kitty has long or short hair:
A “mitted” cat just has white paws.
A pet with a white spot found on its chest has a “locket.”
A cat with one or more little white belly spots has “buttons.”
A “bi-color” is about half white.
A “harlequin” is mostly white with several large patches of color.
A “van” is almost all white with color patches only on the head and tail.
A “tuxedo cat” is a black and white cat with white paws, chest, and belly. It might have some white on the face as well.
Some people call black and white cats “jellicle cats” (after T.S.Eliot)